Patterns for Undergarments

Whether for film or theatre costumes, or historical reenactment purposes, you want to find quality patterns for undergarments so as to create the exact look – even for items that might not be seen. They help shape the look and the mood.

When sewing period undergarments, getting the shape right is key.

Even for a very specific piece, such as a corset from 1890, there will be a number of patterns available. Not all patterns are as period-exact as you might expect. Many patterns are simplified so that the pieces are easier to construct. But others are less exact because the pattern-maker didn't know how to do it properly, or was focused on something quick and simple.

When you're choosing a pattern for undergarments, then, you want to shop carefully with several factors in mind. First and foremost, of course, is what you want the finished piece to look like. Is it going to be seen? That changes everything. If it is going to be seen and you want it to look historically accurate, you must devote yourself to finding the most accurate pattern available.

This sounds daunting, but it can be straightforward and even fun. There is no end of costume sites on the Internet, but you might want to start with a trip to the library. Books of photographs, drawings, reproductions and costume sketches can give you a strong basis from which to proceed. Even paintings of fully clothed people can inform the look you need the underwear to achieve.

Once you know what sort of detailing and structure is required for the finished piece, you can begin to narrow down pattern choices. For the most experienced sewers, the preferred pattern is one made by another costumer, rather than a manufactured pattern.

For 19th century items, and occasionally older pieces, a really experienced sewer might enjoy using a pattern from the actual period. These can be very difficult to work with initially, as deciphering layout and measurements can be like learning a new language. You need a lot of patience and bravery to work with them. Many sewing professionals advise ignoring the pattern text and just making up a piece in an order that feels reasonable, using a muslin first. Even for simple pieces like petticoats, pantaloons, pantalettes and shifts, it can be useful to make a muslin to be sure you have the cut and hang right.

Hang is a crucial aspect of period clothing and can only be achieved through the correct undergarments. A good Web site and forum talking about period patterns, although predominantly for outerwear, is Great Bay Area Costumer's Guild and the "great pattern review" section. Most professional costumers are on one or more online forums, as this is a wonderful, supportive space for asking questions, seeking advice and getting ideas.

As you start getting into the 20th century, original and quality reproduction patterns for undergarments become easier to find, although it's debatable as to whether the items themselves are any easier to make! Knitting and crochet patterns tend to be more widely available and can be easier in that you are not trying to support or shape the body. You can also find vintage patterns for half and full slips, which are great because it's difficult to find high-quality modern slips. You can adjust a slip for length and use it for modern wear.

The success of the show Mad Men has led to an increased interest in period clothing, including the underwear that could be so sexy. The structured bras and tight-fitting girdles are best left to experienced sewers, but even mainstream pattern companies have been putting out patterns for 1960s underwear, suggesting that you don't have to be a professional costumer to try and create that specific – and still sophisticated – look.

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